Review of 2024

There were a few moments during our culinary journey in 2024 (and even before during the later parts of 2023) where my wife Jun and I had doubts creeped into our minds. When checking out some of the most acclaimed restaurants with the hottest tables to book in DC, NYC and beyond, we weren’t as impressed as the critics would lead us to believe. We both had to ask ourselves: are we now too spoiled and jaded from all the exceptional dining experiences in our 8th year of marriage? It was a scary question as eating at restaurants was one of our favorite activities together. Our approach to that quandary was to double down and be more active in our quest to check out some of the most exciting restaurants around the country and the world while also revisiting those that wowed us previously. And while there were some restaurants that frankly didn’t live up to the hype, there were plenty of others (both old and new) that still challenged and inspired us. 2024 was the first time we visited Copenhagen, one of the culinary capitals in the world where we broadened our horizon at world-class dining establishments. We also traveled to Chile and Bolivia (I can’t recommend enough Bolivia as a country to visit with its stunning natural beauty without a ton of tourists (yet)) for our anniversary trip during which we checked out a highly acclaimed restaurant in Santiago. During the summer, we also visited Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Barcelona, Spain. Oregon was pretty much a wine tasting trip (we are very high on Oregon pinot noir) where we also had one of the best dinners at a restaurant there (ōkta, which, sadly, closed recently). Barcelona, which Jun had not visited previously, was a fun (and also exceptionally hot) summer trip with a dear friend’s wedding there and also some solid restaurants that we were able to visit. Aside from these trips, we visited NYC a few times to reconnect with friends and also visit some of our old favorite restaurants as well as new ones (finally, Torrisi!). Finally, DC’s dining scene is constantly evolving, mostly in a positive direction, and we were able to experience what some of the hottest openings in the city had to offer, while also celebrating the re-opening of one of our favorite restaurants. I am grateful for another stellar year with Jun and look forward to what 2025 has to bring in our culinary journey. Below are the top 40 dishes from 2024 that I can’t stop thinking about.

NOTE: We did go to the Bay Area in December for my 40th birthday in late December 2023; this list, as noted in my 2023 review, includes the dishes from our visits to restaurants in the Sonoma wine region and San Francisco.

Top Dishes of the Year

1. Santa Barbara Abalone & Uni @ SingleThread (Healdsburg, CA)

For my 40th birthday, we celebrated together at SingleThread, which had become one of the most acclaimed restaurants in America. We enjoyed the restaurant’s homage to Japan’s multi-course kaiseki tradition with California ingredients and ethos. Among several outstanding dishes, none left a stronger impression than the gorgeous combination of Santa Barbara abalone and uni surrounded by sea lettuce cream and chawanmushi.

2. Spicy Shrimp Wontons @ HK Lounge Bistro (San Francisco, CA)

One of the best discoveries from our California trip was HK Lounge Bistro and its awesome dim sum offerings. We were thoroughly impressed with all the dishes we ate here, especially the spicy wontons with crunchy shrimp that I wish we could’ve ordered more if not for a dinner plan that day. Our north star when it comes to dim sum was always in New York’s Chinatown but now in my mind San Francisco will have something to say about that.

3. Buko Pie @ Abacá (San Francisco, CA)

While Jun and I have limited experiences when it comes to Filipino food, our brunch at a San Francisco Abacá convinced us we should explore this cuisine more often. We really enjoyed all the decadent dishes inspired by popular Filipino breakfast with garlic rice and eggs. I was particularly grateful that we were able to get the one last buko pie with coconut, pandan and pistachio on the dessert menu. 

4. Pappardelle and Braised Beef Cheek @ The Red Hen (Washington, DC)

For some reason, 2024 was the first year (after moving to the DC area in 2021) we finally managed to visit The Red Hen. We had a terrific dinner at the restaurant which showed quite convincingly why it is one of the most sought after tables in DC. If you have to order one dish on the menu, you have to get the rustic pappardelle that would have been a standout dish even at a top restaurant in Italy.

5. Fresh Sea Urchin and Pumpkinseeds, Salted Hazelnut @ Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark)

6. Raw Squid on Grilled Koji @ Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark)

7. Hand Dived Scallop, Cream of Sencha Tea @ Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark)

8. Foam of Hazelnut Milk, Seaweed Oil, Caviar @ Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark)

I knew we had to check out Noma before its scheduled closing that was announced in 2023. Before booking our flight and hotel, I first made sure we would have a reservation at the restaurant and was extremely lucky to get one in February. It was truly the best meal we’ve had in 2024, and one of the best in my lifetime. The mastery of different seafood ingredients from the restaurant’s Ocean Season was simply astounding, from a bowl of sea urchin in tomato water and salted hazelnut sprinkled on top to the most incredibly thinly sliced raw squid on top of fermented barley to possibly the best scallop we’ve ever had, followed later by an incredible sweet and savory combination of hazelnut milk foam with seaweed oil and caviar. I hope we get to experience the magic behind Noma’s team in some form even after the restaurant is evolved from its current iteration.

9. Grilled and Glazed Pork, XO, Cockles, Leek @ Selma (Copenhagen, Denmark)

When you visit Copenhagen, it will be impossible to leave the city without trying some smørrebrød, an open-faced sandwich consisting of rye bread and a variety of ingredients on top. For a place it a modern twist while remaining faithful to traditional Danish ingredients, Selma is a good bet. I was particularly a fan of one with grilled and glazed pork that came with cockles and leek, with the pork’s spot-on texture enhanced by aromatic XO sauce.

10. Fried Porkchop @ Barr (Copenhagen, Denmark)

Unlike the more high-octane tour de force from Noma, Barr (in the former Noma space) offered more approachable comfort dishes from around the Northern Sea region. Literally every table around us was ordering the gigantic fried porkchop for two, and were very glad we jumped on the bandwagon, with more or less flawless texture of the meat that was one of the highlights in our memorable Copenhagen trip.

11. Marine Invaders @ Alchemist (Copenhagen, Denmark)

12. Lobster Claw @ Alchemist (Copenhagen, Denmark)

Alchemist, with its philosophy of holistic cuisine that redefines dining through multi-sensory experience and fuses diverse elements from philosophy, sustainability, technology and arts, may not be for everyone. I certainly admit we were somewhat distracted from focusing on the food from time to time from the surreal experience inside a giant planetarium-like dining space. That said, we had some pretty delicious dishes from chef Rasmus Munk’s kitchen, especially an absolutely fantastic mix of crab and sea urchin in the Marine Invaders as well as a deconstructed representation of lobster roll with horseradish cream and tomato powder in the Lobster Claw dish. 

13. Squid, Radish, Parsley, Chicken Dashi @ Kødbyens Fiskebar (Copenhagen, Denmark)

Kødbyens Fiskebar is one of the more popular seafood restaurants in Copenhagen, and for good reasons. Don’t let the modest look of the restaurant in an old meatpacking district fool you. There were some seriously delicious dishes on our leisurely lunch, and one thing that I couldn’t stop thinking about for a while was the thinly sliced squid in chicken dashi that couldn’t been a standout dish at a fine dining restaurant.

14. Grilled Cucumber Salad @ Rose’s Luxury (Washington, DC)

Since we moved to the DC area, Rose’s Luxury has been one of our go-to restaurants to visit. The restaurant (even more so than its fine dining counterpart Pineapple and Pearl) just has that panache that makes dining there so fun. On our repeat visit to the restaurant earlier this year, I loved this grilled cucumber salad with parsley oil, sumac and Greek yogurt, and I don’t even like cucumbers that much!

15. Abalone with Smoked Butter @ Reverie (Washington, DC)

Jun and I were so thrilled that Reverie came back from the ashes (due to an unfortunate fire back in 2022) this year. Chef Johnny Spero hasn’t skipped a beat while planning for his flagship restaurant’s re-opening. On our first visit to Reverie 2.0 earlier this year, we were treated with refined and thoroughly delicious seafood dishes, none more so than this abalone with smoked butter that was simply remarkable.

16. Sizzling Sisig @ Purple Patch (Washington, DC)

Purple Patch was the first Filipino restaurant in DC we visited since our move to the area. While our meal was somewhat mixed (admittedly our experience with Filipino cuisine is rather limited), one dish did stand out by a mile. The sizzling sisig, presented by our server with deliciously sizzling sound, was a wonderful comfort dish of fried pork and soy aioli that I wouldn’t mind coming back to the restaurant for.

17. Conger, Summer Flowers @ Boragó (Santiago, Chile)

One of the highlights of 2024 was our anniversary trip to Chile and Bolivia. While our itinerary was focused mostly on exploring the nature in Chile’s Atacama Desert and the Bolivian highlands, we did manage to visit one of the prominent restaurants in Santiago, Boragó. We really enjoyed exploring the compelling culinary vision and philosophy behind the restaurant’s focus on indigenous ingredients and sustainability. One of the favorite dishes from our dinner was this colorful dish of conger (a type of eel) accompanied by summer flower.

18. Baigan Paneer Bhurji @ Daru (Washington, DC)

It is still somewhat mysterious why Jun and I haven’t visited Daru more often since our last visit in 2021. In any event, we were glad to have re-discovered Daru where we appreciated the restaurant’s distinct take on Indian cuisine that makes for a very compelling experience. Try this addictive paneer bhurji with scrambled Indian cottage cheese with eggplant and chaat masala spice, and see for yourself.

19. Arroz a la Tanceña @ Causa (Washington, DC)

This year, we have made repeated visits to Causa a few times. The creative and soulful Peruvian cooking from chef Carlos Delgado and his team is still firing on all cylinders. On our spring visit, I was especially moved by this awesome bomba rice dish with octopus and ají panca. We will be sure to visit Causa again and again in 2025 to see what chef Carlos has up his sleeve.

20. Fideos Negros @ Pascual (Washington, DC)

One of the most buzzed openings in DC was a new Mexican project from the husband-and-wife team behind Lutèce. Did we think Pascual live up to the hype? Our experience was somewhat mixed, but that doesn’t mean we had a few standout dishes. It would be a scandal if the restaurant drops this fideos negros with huitlacoche (a type of corn fungus) and mushrooms; the earthy flavor from this dish was quite outstanding.

21. Lumache @ Aventino (Bethesda, MD)

We finally found a go-to restaurant within the walking distance from our Bethesda home! Ever since our positive experience at The Red Hen, I was very excited about the news of the same team opening a new project in Bethesda, and Aventino definitely lived up to our expectations. If you have to order just one dish, this lovely lumache pasta with delightfully chewy pieces of guanciale as well as bright tomato and Calabrian chili will blow you away. 

22. Bobo Chicken @ Queen’s English (Washington, DC)

Queen’s English is another restaurant in DC that I have always been very fond of. I have appreciated the high level of execution of Hong Kong cuisine that has won diners over since its opening, and our visit this year was another delicious experience. One highlight from our visit? This absolutely delicious bobo chicken, not only for its distinct flavor from tamari brown butter and ginger-scallion but for the spot-on texture of the poultry.

23. Nettle Egg Jjim & Freshwater Eel @ Atomx (New York, NY)

24. Black Chestnut Ice Cream & Doraji Chocolate Cake @ Atomix (New York, NY)

One drawback of living in the DC area is that we don’t get to visit our favorite restaurants in NYC such as Atomix as often as we’d like. We visited the restaurant on our first trip to NYC of the year in the summer, and I was still amazed by how consistently excellent all the dishes were. Who would’ve thought that steamed eggs along with freshwater eel and sugar snap peas would have the kind of flavor and texture that is unlike anything you would’ve experienced at a fine dining restaurant? While Atomix is known for its stunningly beautiful plating, on this visit I was also very in love with the simple looking spheres of black chestnut ice cream and doraji (bellflower root) chocolate cake; if the restaurant had decided to sell this on the side, I have no doubt it would’ve led to the kind of craze from the cronut!

25. Chutoro Tuna and Aji Amarillo @ Frevo (New York, NY)

26. Strawberry and Arugula Ice Cream @ Frevo (New York, NY)

Another NYC restaurant that we miss a lot is Frevo. We have been following this restaurant for several years now, and it still beats me why the exceptional cooking at this cozy dining establishment does not more recognition. Jun and I were deeply appreciative of how the kitchen continues to push the envelope. We certainly didn’t realize until our visit in the summer that chutoro tuna and the spicy aji Amarillo sauce would be a match made in heaven, especially with a glass of elegant white wine. Jun can be easy to please when it comes to desserts, but I haven’t seen her shout in such excitement in a while after getting a scoop of the strawberry an arugula ice cream that was just perfect for the summer.

27. Goguma Juak @ Jua (New York, NY)

It’s been a while since we last visited Jua where we never had a bad meal. I do wish the restaurant changed its dishes more often, but on the other hand it’s hard to beat the consistency of modern Korean cooking (and also at fairly reasonable price compared to its high-end peers in the city). During our visit to the restaurant in the summer, I was especially fond of this dessert that brought me to my childhood memories of sticky chapssal doughnuts made of glutinous rice.    

28. Cheesecake @ Suculent (Barcelona, Spain)

We ate very well during our summer vacation to Barcelona even though we didn’t hit any of the top fine-dining spots. One restaurant I would love to go back to next time we are in the city is Suculent. Do you know how good the cheesecake there is? Our foodie friend who joined us for lunch immediately asked our server if he could later come back to the restaurant for take-outs. The ethereal texture of this simple dessert is something I won’t forget for a long time.

29. Tomato Tartare, Pumpkin Seeds Cracker @ Besta (Barcelona, Spain)

Our last night in Barcelona was at Besta, a seafood-focused menu from the Cataolina and Galicia regions of Spain. One thing I didn’t realize is that the restaurant has an exceptional miniature version of pizza in the form of tomato tartare and homemade bottarga on top of pumpkin seeds cracker. It was so delicious that it made me wonder if this restaurant should get into a pizza business.

30. Pan-Seared Halibut Filet, Amparo’s Red Mole @ Amparo Fondita (Washington, DC)

DC has some exciting Mexican restaurants that have recently entered the dining scene these days, and Amparo Fondita, which initially started as a pop-up inside Union Market, is one of them. On our visit earlier this year, I was particularly fond of the pan-seared halibut filet with addictively delicious red mole that offered that wonderful spicy kick to the fish.   

31. Zucchini & Green Curry @ Frevo (New York, NY)

For Jun’s birthday in September, we were in NYC and revisited Frevo. The highlight of Jun’s birthday dinner was this astoundingly delicious zucchini and green curry. On this night, we went all out with a wine pairing, and the Sicilian white carricante was a match made in heaven with this zucchini. So divine!

32. Dry Aged Duck Confit, Green Rice, Aji Amarillo @ Foxface Natural (New York, NY)

While we typically visit our old favorites when visiting NYC these days, one new restaurant that I have really wanted to try was Foxface Natural which blew up in the dining scene with exotic dishes such as kangaroo tartare. We did try the tartare (very good) on our visit, but the dish that really blew me away was the dry aged duck confit and a side of green rice and aji amarillo. I’m more a duck breast than a confit person, but this dish was simply outstanding. 

33. Lobster Triangoli @ San Sabino (New York, NY)

Another new restaurant in NYC we were able to visit in 2024 was San Sabino, a new seafood focused project behind the wife-husband duo behind Don Angie. We were lucky to get off the reservation waitlist at the last minute, and I was very glad we managed to try the decadent lobster triangoli pasta that our couple friends who joined us for brunch couldn’t stop raving about. Yes, it is quite pricey at $38 for only four pieces, but you will thank me later.

34. Steelhead Trout, Habanada @ Reverie (Washington, DC)

We visited Reverie again in the fall and chef Johnny Spero was still on top of his game and the restaurant has nicely settled into one of the premier dining destinations in DC. On this visit, and the best dish of the night for me was the dry-aged steelhead trout that was magnificent with the spicy kick of habanada pepper sauce.

35. Hoe Crab @ Dōgon (Washington, DC)

Probably no chef is as celebrated as Kwame Onwuachi in the last couple of years. His NYC restaurant Tatiana is still one of the hardest reservations to get (I have unsuccessfully tried numerous times), and he was recently featured in the Netflix Chef’s Table show. This year, he decided to open a new project in DC, Dōgon, that we were able to check out in the fall. There were indeed very delicious dishes, none more so than the crab dish called “Hoe Crab” accompanied by plantain hoe cakes and aji verde sauce. It is arguably the best crab cake you could possibly eat, with delicate crab meat simmered in garlic butter and creole spices.

36. Leek Tart @ Ceibo (Washington, DC)

Another newcomer in DC that Jun and I visited this year was an eclectic restaurant from Uruguayan brothers, Ceibo. We had a satisfying meal here, especially on the starter section where the leek tart with taleggio cheese on pastry dough really impressed us, with the earthy and savory character of leek really shining on top of a light pastry dough.

37. Grilled Butterfield Branzino @ Maydan (Washington, DC)

Maydan has always been one of our favorite restaurants in DC, and whenever we go to the restaurant we would order the amazing lamb shoulder for main dish. This fall, though, we were joined by another couple friends and therefore were able to order one more main dish, and oh boy this branzino was a revelation, with its impeccable texture and seductive flavor from sumac and cumin. If you want to try something other than the signature lamb shoulder dish, I highly recommend you give this beautiful fish a try.

38. Deul Gi Reum @ Joo Ok (New York, NY)

One of the best restaurant meals we’ve had this year was at Joo Ok during our last trip to NYC. The team behind the restaurant decided to do the unthinkable by leaving behind its home in Seoul, Korea (where it has had two Michelin stars) to start over in New York City, and I’m so glad they did by offering another awesome modern Korean dining spot in the city. My favorite dish of the night was deul gi reum (translating to perilla oil, prepared in person by the chef’s mother-in-law) underneath quail egg, caviar, spotted shrimp and geoduck. It was a dish with small portion but packed so much wonderful flavor and texture.

39. Black Walnut Caramelized Whey @ Aska (New York, NY)

We visit Aska at least once a year, and this year was no exception. Chef Fredrik Berselius’ modern Scandinavian cooking was still going strong during our last visit, and we encountered a mix of new and familiar dishes. I was particularly in love with the dessert of black walnut caramelized whey alongside sweet woodruff. It quite aptly highlighted the elegance and sophistication of the kitchen’s ambitious menu. Perhaps they are due for that third Michelin star?

40. Turbot @ Reverie (Washington, DC)

For our last restaurant meal of the year, we celebrated by birthday at Reverie again. This is our third time at the restaurant this year and we encountered a number of new dishes on every visit. It was so good to see chef Johnny Spero again and his mastery of seafood dishes was still very strong. The highlight of my birthday dinner was no doubt this turbot that came as the last savory course, with battera kombu and caramelized cream. The fish was simply stunning with its rich flavor and impeccable texture. Thank you for being in DC, Reverie!  

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