Back when I lived in NYC, one of the more reliable restaurants I had been to multiple times was Locanda Verde in the Tribeca neighborhood. I really liked how chef Andrew Carmellini’s straightforward yet undeniably delicious Italian dishes made for dinner nights that could not go wrong. Chef Carmellini had since expanded his mini empire in the city through his NoHo Hospitality company. One of his more recent project was Café Carmellini, which opened inside The Fifth Avenue Hotel around a couple of years ago. Knowing all the fond memories from my Locanda Verde visits, I had wanted to visit the restaurant for a while, and finally had the opportunity to check it out with my wife Jun and another couple. While the food was overall delicious, I have to admit my feelings about the restaurant were somewhat conflicted.

If Locanda Verde was about an approachable neighborhood joint that is also quite good with food, Café Carmellini is all about pure opulence of the glory days of old New York, with shiny chandeliers in a dark, spacious dining room. When Jun and I stepped into the restaurant to join our friends who were waiting at the bar, I couldn’t help thinking, “Whoever said (back in the height of the pandemic period) that New York is dead is the biggest idiot in the world.” It felt as if the city had become entirely oblivious to that painful memory and instead decided to indulge in the next Roaring Twenties. And the pan-European food from the restaurant certainly reflected this unbounded confidence and hedonism, with a price point (especially given the modest portions for many of the dishes) that would scare many diners. Oysters topped with green-apple sorbet quickly won over Jun who is fairly sensitive to freshness of the shellfish, but I certainly didn’t expect a dish of four oysters to cost $26. White asparagus with Maltaise sauce was also another delicious starter, which set us back $42 for relatively thin four pieces. Among the starters, my favorite was the crab and Meyer lemon mille-feuille, and I definitely wouldn’t have minded having this dish all by myself given its portion.

Unlike the simpler (yet no less delicious) pasta dishes from Locanda Verde, the ones from Café Carmellini certainly do not lack for elements of panache, like the decadent duck tortellini with foie gras foam. For the main dishes, we ordered halibut and chicken. The halibut was nicely cooked but it didn’t feel as adventurous as the dishes that came before, especially given the $57 price tag. The chicken gran sasso for two (at $45 per person) also felt to be on the safer side, although the texture of the meat from the two separate dishes of breast and dark meat was pleasantly moist. For desserts, we shared sticky toffee pudding as well as olive oil and Sorrento lemon coppa. Between the two, I preferred the refreshing kick of the lemon dessert to the toffee pudding which wasn’t quite the showstopper I had expected to be.

Getting a reservation at Café Carmellini will not come easy, especially for prime times on the weekends, so booking ahead is essential. The restaurant has an impressive wine list (I was actually surprised with the smaller than expected markups for some of the bottles from leading regions of France and Italy) as well as cocktails that would not be out of place at a glitzy lounge in Manhattan. As noted, if you are looking for a place where you feel rich and special while enjoying food, Café Carmellini would definitely offer that experience. The service overall was professional and friendly with sharply dressed servers, although the pace of the food was somewhat uneven at times. I appreciated the dining experience at Café Carmellini for bringing elements that remind you why New York City is such a special place, and the food certainly backs up the luxurious vibe of the restaurant (assuming your wallet is not an issue). At the end of our meal, however, I realized that I was missing Locanda Verde in its heydays. Perhaps I should pay the restaurant a visit next time Jun and I are in the city.

KenScale: 8.0/10 (Jun’s Score: 8.0/10)

Address: 250 5th Avenue, New York, NY 10001

Website: https://www.cafecarmellini.com/

Reservation via Resy