A former nightclub turned restaurant, the Beatrice Inn sounds like a classic nightlife trap where people just go for expensive but boring food before partying in West Village or Meatpacking District. After multiple chef turnovers, the restaurant hired someone who has quickly become a rising star in the New York dining scene. The chef, Angie Mar, has been known to have a few tricks up her sleeves when it comes to meat cooking. And dare I say, my wife and I recently had perhaps the best duck dish in New York City! I know that is a very bold statement, with a ton of restaurants in the city that cook excellent ducks, but unless we encounter something better in the near future, I am willing to stand by my 9.0 KenScale score (my wife eagerly agrees too).

The restaurant offers meat-centric dishes that are best shared with larger groups of four and more. The prices are definitely on the high side but the quality of food really backs up the price tags. For appetizer, I was somewhat disappointed with the tiny portion of yellowtail carpaccio with porcini and truffle preserves on top when it arrived at our table, but the silky smooth texture of the yellowtail was absolutely wonderful with the preserves on top. Now let’s get to the main part. The kitchen roasts a whole duck and then brings it in flames to our table for a little show before carving it for us on a big plate. It is accompanied by potato fingerlings Lyonnaise, and we also ordered a side of pan roasted ramps with crispy duck egg and perigord truffles. In all my five and a half years of culinary journey in New York, I haven’t tasted a duck quite like this. It is absolutely tender and juicy, while the seasoning is kept at a minimum to make the texture shine even more. Combine the meat with cherry jus on top throughout, and you have an absolute winner. The whole duck was for a party up to 4, but my wife and I were actually glad we were the only ones devouring this beautiful bird on the table, and did manage to finish off the entire plate! My wife, who has always been partial to duck dishes in her diet, declared she couldn’t remember having a better duck dish than the one at the Beatrice Inn. The potato fingerlings served as a worthy side to the meat, and if you ever feel a little overwhelmed with the meat fest, add some roasted ramps that can really help neutralize the meaty sensation in the middle of our meal.

Getting a reservation at the Beatrice Inn can be tricky, especially on the weekends, so advance booking is always highly recommended. The restaurant has a bar area on the entrance that gets really loud during peak times, but we managed to escape the chaos by sitting at the back dining space. There is full bar with some strong old school Manhattan style cocktails to complement your meal. I can’t wait to come back to the Beatrice Inn to see what other fantastic meat dishes that the kitchen has in its roster. I sincerely hope the eye-opening duck is not their own strength! My wife and I agreed we should bring at least a group of six hungry friends on board to sample as many dishes as possible next time.

KenScale: 9.0/10

• Creativity: 8.5/10
• Execution: 9.0/10
• Ingredients: 8.5/10
• Flavor: 9.0/10
• Texture: 9.5/10

Address: 285 West 12th St, New York, NY 10014

Telephone: (212) 675-2808

Website: http://thebeatriceinn.com/